Enchanted By Sewing
EnchBySew-48:Garment Copycatting

I'm learning to copycat a favorite knit top, without cutting the garment apart.

Direct download: FINALdraft4GarmentCopycat_copy_-_LaurelShimer.mp3
Category:podcast -- posted at: 2:29pm PST

Ench By Sew-47: Oscar de La Renta Field Trip

Come along on a field trip to the Oscar De La Renta Exhibit at the De Young Museum in San Francisco

Direct download: FINALOscarDeLaRentaLaurelShimer.mp3
Category:podcast -- posted at: 2:00pm PST

Ready Set Sew! Sewing Style

Ready Set Sew! Sewing my own garments, allows me to define and create my own style.

 

This Month’s Show 

 

1) Primeros Pensamientos/First Thoughts

* Defining this sewist’s current style 


* Elements of Style- According to Laurel

-Color

-Design Lines and Fit, 

-Fabric and Drape

-Lifestyle

 

In reference to wearing fur -We go with what the always charming Felix Bassenak (S.Z. Sakall) said to Elizabeth Lane (aka Barbara Stanwick) in Christmas in Conneticut…


"You need it? Nobody needs a mink coat but a mink!"

http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0037595/quotes


2) Entonces/Then

Technicos: Techniques I used for altering M6403, the pattern I used for my black linen summer pants

 

In Pensamientos Finales, I recall
the importance of 
sewing this maxi jumpsuit

3)) Pensamientos Finales/Final Thoughts

Looking back- Sewing myself as a grownup

 



….

 

M6403 pants pattern - out of print but many copies available on the web

M6076 Palmer and Pletsch princess-seamed shirt

 

Direct download: FINALcast_EnchantedBySewing_Ready_Set_Sewing_StyleLaurelShimer.mp3
Category:podcast -- posted at: 5:10pm PST

Sewing Pinto's Purse using the free buttercup purse pattern from Rae at MadeByRae. Her original (free) pattern is available at http://www.made-by-rae.com/2009/02/free-buttercup-bag-sewing-pattern/

Rae's pattern is designed for laying out on a fat quarter.

My buttercup purse is an example of green sewing. I created it both from remnants saved in my fabric inventory and scraps from Pinto, a sleeveless princess-seamed shirt I had just finished.

 http://meencantacoser.blogspot.com/2016/07/summer-essentials-pinto-picnic-shirt.html

Snapshot of This Month’s Show

Primeros Pensamientos//First Reflections  

Rae has created a number of patterns linked at her site. One of them is this darling free purse. It’s a tiny bag, though you can enlarge the pattern easily on a photocopy machine or extend the pattern freehand. I’ve made several of these purses both in the original small size and also larger versions. The small original, which is big enough to hold my keys, iPhone, iPod and maybe a little cash or a bag for a doggie’s needs, is perfect for a walk or an evening out.

http://www.made-by-rae.com/2009/02/free-buttercup-bag-sewing-pattern/

When you visit Rae’s site to download this free pattern, you’ll find the terms of use. It’s free when you’re making it for personal use. Rae sells a licensed-to-sell version of this pattern for only $10. She also links to sewists who sell these licensed buttercup purses from her site.

I often vary the size, construction, and details of this purse.

Technicos/Techniques I use for altering and sew Rae's buttercup purse pattern

Rae includes directions for working at this pattern in the site, along with a how-to-layout the pattern.

The pattern pieces include:

a) Purse Outer Top – I call this the yoke. It shows on the outside

b) Purse Outer Bottom – . It shows on the outside.This is what you see the most of from a distance. This piece has tucks at it’s top edge to give the purse fullness, and make it blouse out from the bottom of the yoke.

c) Lining – The lining extends from the bottom of the outer bottom to the top of the outer top. This piece does not have tucks or gathers.

d) Strap (no pattern piece – Dimensions are Given)

e) Tab/Decorative Button Flap ( no pattern piece – Dimensions are Given)

My Buttercups

1) Turning Scraps into Lining and the Magic of the Zig Zag

2) How I increased the pattern size

  a. 129 percent size

  b. Extend the bottom for a bigger purse

 3) Play with it

            1. Paper

            2. Muslin

            3. Paper towels

 c. Vary strap length

 d. Add rings

 

4) Interfacing for Light Weight Fabric Body

5) Altering the original details to suit me

6) Considering Embellishment Options

 

  Pensamientos Finales/Final Thoughts

 

Buttercup purses Known and Loved – Kept and Given.

A few Buttercups that stand out in my mind

 

1) Red Toile Evokes Marie Antoinette

2) Think Vintage - Bluebird with Tatting

3) Little Christmas Cowgirl

4) Engagement Celebration

5) Buttercup Dreams …

. . .

I never get tired of using, sewing, or envisioning, these charming accessories. Thanks Rae! Your buttercups purses are just one more thing that keep me… 

Enchanted by Sewing

 

Direct download: FINALPurseForPintoButtercupLaurelShimerMadeByRae_EnchantedBySewing.mp3
Category:podcast -- posted at: 9:43pm PST

This month's show is, PART 2 of Embellished and Printed, Reflections from a Historical Exhibit from an Historical Exhibit at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York City - Fashion and Virtue: Textile Patterns and the Print Revolution, 1520–1620

In this Show
*Primeros Pensamientos/First Reflections – Chatting about my sewing and a little more

My Kensington Gardens Shirt - Terminado!/Finished!
*D’accurdo, tambien/OK also
And a little more /y un poco más
At work on Pinto another summer shirt

*Entonces/Then Back to the exhibit at the Metropoliton Museum of Art in NYC - Fashion and Virtue: Textile Patterns and the Print Revolution, 1520–1620

Web Resources
I mentioned the Tanna Lawn fabric for my cur.rent sewing project, that I purchased a few years back from Liberty of London. In this podcast "Laurel Loves London" I talked about a trip to Liberty
http://enchantedbysewing.blogspot.com/2013/06/ench-by-sew-009-laurel-loves-london.html

One of the items in the exhibit we visit in this cast comes from the Victoria and Albert in London (V&A). Below is a link to a walk I shared with you around the fashion gallery at the V&A.
http://enchantedbysewing.blogspot.com/2013/07/ench-by-sew-010-v-fashion-gallery-tour.html

-Fashion and Virtue: Textile Patterns
and the Print Revolution, 1520–1620
http://www.metmuseum.org/press/exhibitions/2015/fashion-and-virtue

- “The Third Knot”. Interlaced Roundel with Eight Wreaths and a Scalloped Shield in its Center
Artist:Albrecht Dürer (German, Nuremberg 1471–1528 Nuremberg)
Artist:After Leonardo da Vinci (Italian, Vinci 1452–1519 Amboise) (or workshop)
Date:1521 before
http://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/388791

- Link to the 10th century block printed lions - that I think would make a great quilt block - Spoonflower would be my ticket! http://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/448647

Ancient Egypt print block
http://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/448512

Many wonderful links turn up when I searched on 'printed textiles' at the Met
https://www.google.com/search?client=safari&rls=en&q=www.metmuseum.org+printed+textiles&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8

"Nineteenth-Century European Textile Production
http://www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/txtn/hd_txtn.htm

 

Direct download: castFINALPart2PrintesignFabricMetJune_-LAURELSHIMER.mp3
Category:podcast -- posted at: 1:32pm PST

EnchBySew-43 Embellished and Printed Fabric, Historical Reflections

Embellished and Printed Fabric, Reflections from a Historical Exhibit from an Historical Exhibit at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York City - Fashion and Virtue: Textile Patterns and the Print Revolution, 1520–1620


In this Show:

* Primero Pensamientos/First Reflections -
I reflect on this exhibit at the Met and also on how the exhibits I saw there, relate to my own current sewing and my interest in patterned fabrics and their history.

*Entonces/Then
#FashionandVirtue
We go to the exhibit together. Remember that this is only Part 1 of this exhibit. I’ll take you back with me again, next month in the June show, for Part 2.

Web Resources
I mentioned the Tanna Lawn fabric for my cur.rent sewing project, that I purchased a few years back from Liberty of London. In this podcast "Laurel Loves London" I talked about a trip to Liberty
http://enchantedbysewing.blogspot.com/2013/06/ench-by-sew-009-laurel-loves-london.html

One of the items in the exhibit we visit in the current podcast comes from the Victoria and Albert in London (V&A). Below is a link to a walk I shared with you around the fashion gallery at the V&A.
http://enchantedbysewing.blogspot.com/2013/07/ench-by-sew-010-v-fashion-gallery-tour.html

-Fashion and Virtue: Textile Patterns
and the Print Revolution, 1520–1620
http://www.metmuseum.org/press/exhibitions/2015/fashion-and-virtue

- Link to the 10th century block printed lions - that I think would make a great quilt block - Spoonflower would be my ticket! http://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/448647

Ancient Egypt print block
http://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/448512

Many wonderful links turn up when I searched on 'printed textiles' at the Met
https://www.google.com/search?client=safari&rls=en&q=www.metmuseum.org+printed+textiles&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8

"Nineteenth-Century European Textile Production
http://www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/txtn/hd_txtn.htm

 

Direct download: CastFINALEmbellished_and_Printed_Fabrics.mp3
Category:podcast -- posted at: 4:52pm PST

This month is a short cast - a mini-cast!

 

Happily Ever After – A Sewing Story


I mentioned in this episode that I wish I could see the following exhibit at the Met in New York. I can't, but maybe you can! I am planning to buy the book. A docent I met there said it's going to be a really big deal show.

 

Manus x Machina: Fashion in an Age of Technology Over 120 pieces of haute couture and ready-to-wear fashion are yours to discover in Manus x Machina: Fashion in an Age of Technologyhttp://www.metmuseum.org 


The exhibition explores the creative process and unravels how designers are reconciling the handmade with the machine-made in fashion. Galleries will focus on embroidery, feather work, artificial flowers, and pleating alongside innovative processes such as 3D printing, computer modeling, and more. Opening in early May on through

Direct download: FINALCast42April2016MiniSewingTheStory.mp3
Category:podcast -- posted at: 12:52pm PST

Fit For a Princess - Fitting Princess Seams

What is a princess-seam? A princess-seam is intended to mirror the shape of a woman’s torso. It’s a long, lengthwise curved seam midway between the side seams and the center of the garment. You might see a princess-seam in a women's nightgown, camisole, swim suit, blouse, shirt, dress, or coat. The lines you’ll typically see in a bustier, or merry widow garment, are a good example of princess-seams.

 

Princess-seams are sewn into the front and/or back of a shirt. They may start at the low or high hip,  the waist , or wherever the bottom of the garment is. In a fitted cropped top they’ll start at that bottom crop point, in a dress or coat, without separate skirt pieces, they are probably at the hemline. A princess-seam usually moves up to the armscye (armhole) or to the shoulder seam.

 

Often a princess-seamed dress does not have a separate waistline at all, since it does its shaping without darts. A -Line dresses often have princess-seams.

 

Well executed princess-seams can add a long sliming look. 

 

In this episode 

 

Primero /First  -  Royal Reflection – My own ideas about sewing history and choices I made for my recent princess-seam sewing.

 

Entonces/Then – Technicos for Princess-Seam fitting – What techniques I’ve been using to fit my princess-seamed shirt pattern

 

Resources:

* For my princess seam pattern,  I used M6076 0 a Palmer and Pletsch pattern

http://mccallpattern.mccall.com/m6076-products-10887.php?page_id=482

 

 

* Coco  Chanel's Sleeves https://cloningcouture.com/2014/08/04/chanel-and-the-sleeve/

 
 

 


Kunghei fatchoy! (Happy New Year!) Sewing inspired by the Chinese Lunar New Year and the NYC Metropolitan Museum of Art exhibit "China Through the Looking Glass".  

Direct download: castFINALYearMonkeyjan2016LaurelShimer.mp3
Category:general -- posted at: 4:04pm PST

Ench By Sew-39: Plaid tidings’ to you and all of your kin( *Dolls* too!) Part 2 of Tartans and Plaids  (Winter Holidays Mini-Cast)

Plaid tidings’ to you and all of your kin! During the winter holidays, plaids and tartans look so festive. Dolls are the perfect plaid-sewing partners, because sewing for a doll, gives me the motivation to engage in some sample sewing. And at this time of year they remind me of  dollies, and doll clothes that were sewn for me, at this special time of year – like the mini wardrobe of Barbie clothes my aunt gracie sewed and sent me one winter holiday, as well as the red courderoy jumpers and dotted slip dresses, Mama made for our chatty Kathy dolls, as well as for me and my sister Trisha in the winter I was 4 (with matching girl jumpers).

 

K.R's green plaid jumper is based on an

 American Girl free doll clothes pattern in "Mollie's Pretty Clothes"

 

The doll featured in this sewing project is Katie Rose. K.Rose is an Engel-Puppen doll. (Engel-Puppen doll link - has history of these dolls)


Sample sewing may not sound very exciting, but sewing an 18” (think American Girl sized) plaid doll’s dress gave me a chance to – in a very limited amount of time - practice my pattern cutting out skills for plaid fabric, as well as experiment with a new-to-me technique for improved  plaid matching


This  show is all about the technicos/techniques.


My goals with this doll’s dress were to work on:

Primero/First)Careful layout of multiple princess-seamed bodice pieces - definitely less nerve racking for a doll, and gives me confidence to work on the red plaid princess-seamed shirt I’m muslin’ing - as well as the plaid nightshirt I’ll plan to be making soon for my husband.

Entonces/Then)I tried Fusible Thread to decrease slippage during sewing (a new-to-me technique for enhanced/ improved  plaid matching).  Also useful /good idea for sewing on patch pockets  


I used crafster to look for help regarding my challenges with fusible thread.

Response from ~T Read more: http://www.craftster.org/forum/index.php?topic=442125.0#ixzz3ufLODkuJ

https://www.byannie.com/shop/product/fusible-thread/


She calls for low heat, so I am guessing you just had the iron too hot.


She also describes another technique for using it with aluminum foil as your pressing cloth..letting that cool and peeling it off, to create a design on fabric. Like a dimensional paint overlay technique?


You Craftsters always inspire me to hunt for new ideas   


I Goggled 'Fusible Thread Instruction' for this one. There are more on there as well.


~T”

I love using succulents all over the house during the festive season.
This simple arrangement provides the perfect place for Katie Rose to hang out.


American Girl Doll Clothes Patterns - Free http://www.agplaythings.com/AG%20Patterns/DollDressPatterns.html

 

More Plaid Web Resources


http://moviestarmakeover.com/category/classically-ladylike/


http://moviestarmakeover.com/category/myrna-loy/


http://www.pendleton-usa.com/thumbnail/Home/FABRIC/PLAIDS/1721/c/1828/pc/1816.uts

 

Direct download: castFINALplaidTidingsLaurelShimer.mp3
Category:podcast -- posted at: 1:02pm PST